Tantallon Castle, located on a cliff top near North Berwick in East Lothian, Scotland, has a rich history. We spent an enjoyable couple of hours exploring the ruins on a sunny but windy day at the end of April.
Tantallon was probably built in the mid-14th century, by William Douglas who after returning from France to reclaim his inheritance, became the undisputed head of a very wealthy family.
But when William’s heir, James, was killed at the Battle of Otterburn (during a raid into England), the Douglas inheritance was split in two. The line that became known as the black Douglases kept most of the land, but William’s illegitimate son George was given Tantallon Castle and the title of Earl of Angus, so establishing the Red Douglases.
The subsequent Earls of Angus became powerful players over the course of a century, consolidating the red Douglas lineage and influence. During this period the Earls were loyal to the Scottish kings, with the 4th Earl having the privilege of placing the crown on the head of James III.
The castle itself played a significant role in the conflicts between Scotland and the English during the Wars of Scottish Independence.
It was besieged several times, most notably in 1491 by King James IV, who sought to weaken the red Douglas family, perhaps in part because of rumours about the 5th Earl’s treasonous negotiations with the English.
During the 16th century, Tantallon Castle underwent further expansions and renovations, becoming a formidable fortress overlooking the Firth of Forth. However, after the eventual decline of the Douglas family’s power, the castle fell into disrepair. It was abandoned in the 17th century, following damage sustained during the Siege of Tantallon Castle in 1651 by Oliver Cromwell’s forces.
Today, Tantallon Castle stands as a striking ruin, maintained by Historic Environment Scotland, attracting visitors with its dramatic coastal location and intriguing history.
The East Lothian coastal town of North Berwick is a popular place for tourists. It boasts two beaches , the East and the West, which are both ideal for swimming, sunbathing, and various water sports. North Berwick also offers great views of the nearby Bass Rock and the Isle of May, making it a picturesque destination for nature lovers. Additionally, the town is home to various attractions such as the Scottish Seabird Centre, the North Berwick Law, and the ruins of nearby Tantallon Castle, providing visitors with plenty to see and do.
Parking in the centre is free, but on a sunny Saturday at the end of April, it was quite busy so we were lucky to find a space for our car. Our first priority on arrival was to find somewhere to eat that would allow us to sit with our two dogs. We needn’t have worried. North Berwick has a wide range of bars, restaurants and cafés and quite a few seemed to welcome dogs. We settled for an Italian Tapas bar and enjoyed an excellent selection of vegetarian dishes.
After lunch we headed for the west beach. Of the two, this was more sheltered from the wind, attracting, families, young people and dog walkers. There were also one or two hardy souls taking to the water (rather them than us). Our Westie and Collie had great fun on the wide expanse of sand, chasing balls and other dogs. No one seemed to mind though, and we enjoyed a gentle walk in the afternoon sunshine.
Sadly, we couldn’t stay too long as it was starting to get late (we had already spent the earlier part of the afternoon at Tantallon Castle). So with the dogs safely in the car, we headed down the A1 towards the Scottish Borders.
Earlier this month I had a short look around Perth, a city of some 47000 in the heart of Scotland.
Perth has a rich history dating back some 800 years. But neolithic artifacts on display in the recently opened museum show that people have been living along the River Tay, Scotland’s longest river, for thousands of years.
The museum building itself was once home to markets, concerts, political conferences and even wrestling matches. But it reopened as the museum after a recent £27 million redevelopment plan. Among its many historical exhibits is the Stone of Destiny (also known as the Stone of Scone).
This ancient symbol of Scotland, which has returned to Perthshire for the first time in 700 years, is a king-making stone that was used to inaugurate Scottish monarchs at Scone, 5km (3 miles) upriver from Perth. But it was taken as a spoil of war by King Edward 1 of England; and taken to Westminster Abbey in London where it has been used to crown English and then British monarchs up until the present day.
I spent a good few hours exploring the museum and learning about the history of the city, but was also lucky enough to obtain a ticket to see the Stone of Destiny. Photographs inside were not allowed, but the short presentation underlined the significance of the stone to the Scottish nation.
Next door to the museum is St. John’s Kirk. This old building dates from 1448 although and has an interesting history of its own, summarised aptly on the Kirk’s own website.
After another coffee stop I walked the short distance from the city centre to the art gallery (and former home of the museum). The gallery was interesting, highlighting a number of local artists but wasn’t quite my thing. They also hold lectures and other events but I was a day too early for the talk on Jacobite artefacts and clothing.
I’m sure there is much more to see in Perth, but it was getting cold as the day wore on and I had to meet Karon for our journey back to the Borders.
I’d certainly visit Perth again and perhaps get to see the nearby Palace of Scone, and to the south of the city, the famous Loch Leven and its castle.
From Austria we drove through tunnels and over mountains. Our destination was Verona, a city in northern Italy’s Veneto region. It is also close to Lake Garda and only about 1.5 hours by train from Venice.
As cities go, Verona offers a wealth of attractions for visitors. We spent seven nights exploring the rich history, stunning architecture, and romantic sites. We also managed to visit Lake Garda twice during our week’s stay (see the next post).
However, it was very hot while we were there. So much so that we avoided taking our dogs out in the heat of the afternoon, instead enjoying the comfort of our air conditioned apartment. It did mean though that a day trip to Venice wasn’t possible as the dogs would have found it much too hot (like us, they are more used to a Scottish climate). But looking at it another way, we got to see even more of Verona.
Walking into the city centre, you cannot miss the famous Roman Arena. This is an ancient amphitheater that still hosts concerts and opera performances today. Indeed, on at least two evenings there were crowds gathering for performances, just as we were going out for a drink and some dinner.
Another striking feature of Verona is its architecture. We wandered through charming narrow streets, such as Via Mazzini and Via Cappello. These picturesque alleys are lined with boutique shops, cafes, and historic buildings, offering a delightful atmosphere for strolling and soaking in the local culture.
There are also a number of large squares. One of the most famous, the Piazza delle Erbe (photo below) is surrounded by medieval buildings, has a stunning fountain, and is regularly filled with market stalls.
One afternoon, before it became too hot and with the dogs safely in the cool apartment, we visited the stunning Verona cathedral (Cattedrale di Santa Maria Matricolare). This magnificent Romanesque-Gothic cathedral has an impressive facade but the interior is even more stunning. Going inside, you can really appreciate the work that went into constructing and decorating such an exquisite buliding.
We also visited the popular Juliet’s House with its famous Balcony. This 13th-century house is believed to have been the home of the Capulets, the family to which Juliet belonged, and is said to be the inspiration for Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet tragedy. It was perhaps the most touristy and crowded of all the places we visited, given the small space in the courtyard, but this simply underlines the continued impact Shakespeare has across the world.
Among the many other places we saw were the Castelvecchio, a medieval castle and museum, which offers a fascinating glimpse into Verona’s history; and the elegant Piazza die Signori.
In the evenings, the city centre is buzzing, with the many busy restaurants serving pasta, pizza, risotto and a range of local dishes which even included horse meat. Being vegetarian, we were ate a lot of pizza and pasta, but good as these meals were, we did find it a little repetitive and longed for something more spicy. Another popular activity in Verona is drinking Aperol Spritz. I know it is available in Scotland but somehow it seemed more natural to be drinking it in Verona.
Fortunately, like in Spain, the bars and restaurants stay open late in Verona, and so even at midnight, there are still people eating and others taking in the atmosphere in front of the Arena.
It was easy to get to the sites in Verona as everything was in walking distance. Also, because of the city centre’s narrow streets, people prefer using scooters and bicycles instead of cars. However, outside of the centre, driving in Verona can be intimidating because of the heavy and noisy traffic!
We had a fantastic seven nights in Verona and would recommend a visit to anyone who would like to blend Italian history, culture and cuisine.
We spent a little over 20 hours in this city, but it was enough to realise that a properly planned, and longer visit is required. Indeed, driving into Stirling we sort of assumed it would be “good” because it had a castle; and most places with a castle have history and other old buildings. Stirling didn’t disappoint.
The old town is set on a hill which leads up winding streets to the rather grand castle, protected by statues of Robert the Bruce and an infantryman. Visible from the castle, and arising from the top of nearby Abbey Craig, is the impressive William Wallace Monument. Indeed, Wallace is a significant figure in the area’s local history.
Unfortunately for us, dogs were not allowed and admission to the castle required pre-booking (nor were there places available). But those who had been inside said it was well worth a visit.
The architecture of the old town was very appealing. Lots of stone houses, and grand buildings, including the old jail, the youth hostel, and the Highland Hotel.
The latter was our destination for the night; and also the only downside to our visit. Yes, the building is magnificent, but our actual hotel room was very tired and unwelcoming.
It was really just a flying visit, so we never really experienced an evening out in Stirling. Indeed, although lots of places were dog-friendly, we left it too late to order food (and in one place the kitchen was closed due to Brexit delivery problems). A meal back at the hotel was the only option!