The Swiss Capital

Tags

architecture, Bern, heritage

The fourth leg of our European Road trip was spent in Bern, Switzerland.

Bern is a compact city that is easy to see on foot. We were pleasantly surprised to find so few cars, testimony we presume to the excellent tram and bus network.

Visitors to the Swiss capital can enjoy a variety of activities and attractions of which a highlight for us was the Old Town. This is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is known for its well-preserved medieval architecture and the famous Zytglogge (Clock Tower). We spent quite some time exploring the streets and admiring the buildings and many fountains.

Above photos: The famous Zytglogge (Clock Tower)

Another key site is the Bern Cathedral. Also known as Berner Münster, this impressive Gothic cathedral is the tallest cathedral in Switzerland. We didn’t venture inside but it was certainly elegant from the outside.

Bern’s cathedral standing proud over the city

The Bundeshaus (Federal Palace) is the seat of the Swiss government. It is possible take a tour and learn about Switzerland’s political system, but we were happy just to photograph this stunning and important building. In fact, you can walk around the outside quite easily as there is no fencing or other restrictions.

Switzerland’s impressive parliament building.

Because it was so hot (10 °C above normal) we took a walk in one of the parks alongside the River Aare. The river flows through the city, and much to our surprise, we saw a number of locals floating downstream, chatting as they went. It looked great fun and is apparently a common activity in the summer. Clearly the water must be free of pollution, unlike almost every river in England.

The river Aare winds its way through the centre of Bern

Unfortunately, we didn’t get to see everything Bern has to offer, including Bern’s bears, its museums, and Einstein House. But we did enjoy some fantastic vegetarian and vegan food in an excellent dog-friendly restaurant. So good it was worthy of two visits.

Our accommodation was a few kilometres out of the city centre and in a residential area. Although well decorated and very clean, we found it a bit small for the two of us and our dogs. It was literally just a small kitchen, bathroom and bedroom (into which so much furniture had been placed that we couldn’t move without tripping over things). But the previously mentioned tram network made getting around the city very easy with the added bonus that tourists with a Bern pass get to travel for free.

We were only in Bern a couple of days, but if you’re interested in history, culture, nature, or simply enjoying the charm of the city, Bern has something for everyone. It certainly isn’t a place for small budgets, but it is clean, friendly and everyone we met spoke perfect English.

More images of Bern above.

Lake Garda

Tags

boats, lakes, Lazise, Peschiera, scenery

Being only about 35 minutes from Verona by car, we squeezed in two visits to Lake Garda.

Lake Garda is a stunning destination located in northern Italy. It is the largest lake in the country and is surrounded by picturesque towns and breathtaking landscapes. As a popular tourist destination, it attracts visitors from all over the world.

One of the main attractions of Lake Garda is its crystal-clear waters, which are perfect for swimming, sailing, and other water activities. The lake is also surrounded by beautiful beaches, where visitors can relax and soak up the sun. This was certainly the case in Bardolino which with all its holiday accommodation seemed completely geared up for tourists. Certainly we saw many people sunbathing or enjoying a swim. To get out of the heat of the day we took refuge in a hotel and enjoyed some cool lemonade.

Bardolino

The towns around Lake Garda are full of charm and character. We never quite made it to Sirmione, known for its medieval castle and thermal baths. But we did visit Lazise and Peschiera del Garda.

Above: Peschiera

Both towns were similar in atmosphere and style, although Peschiera is the bigger of the two. There were plenty of old buildings, restaurants and bars, and each had its own harbour. During the evening in Peschiera, it was apparent just how much of the lake’s shore has been developed, as there were lights surrounding the lake for as far as the eye could see.

Photos above: Lazise

Although by no means a quiet location, Lake Garda looked very interesting and we do plan to return at some point in the future.

Beautiful Verona

Tags

cathedral, history, old town, Shakespeare

From Austria we drove through tunnels and over mountains. Our destination was Verona, a city in northern Italy’s Veneto region. It is also close to Lake Garda and only about 1.5 hours by train from Venice.

As cities go, Verona offers a wealth of attractions for visitors. We spent seven nights exploring the rich history, stunning architecture, and romantic sites. We also managed to visit Lake Garda twice during our week’s stay (see the next post).

However, it was very hot while we were there. So much so that we avoided taking our dogs out in the heat of the afternoon, instead enjoying the comfort of our air conditioned apartment. It did mean though that a day trip to Venice wasn’t possible as the dogs would have found it much too hot (like us, they are more used to a Scottish climate). But looking at it another way, we got to see even more of Verona.

Walking into the city centre, you cannot miss the famous Roman Arena. This is an ancient amphitheater that still hosts concerts and opera performances today. Indeed, on at least two evenings there were crowds gathering for performances, just as we were going out for a drink and some dinner.

A section of the Arena. Inside a concert is in full swing

Another striking feature of Verona is its architecture. We wandered through charming narrow streets, such as Via Mazzini and Via Cappello. These picturesque alleys are lined with boutique shops, cafes, and historic buildings, offering a delightful atmosphere for strolling and soaking in the local culture.

A typically narrow Verona street

There are also a number of large squares. One of the most famous, the Piazza delle Erbe (photo below) is surrounded by medieval buildings, has a stunning fountain, and is regularly filled with market stalls.

One afternoon, before it became too hot and with the dogs safely in the cool apartment, we visited the stunning Verona cathedral (Cattedrale di Santa Maria Matricolare). This magnificent Romanesque-Gothic cathedral has an impressive facade but the interior is even more stunning. Going inside, you can really appreciate the work that went into constructing and decorating such an exquisite buliding.

Above photos: The cathedral in Verona

We also visited the popular Juliet’s House with its famous Balcony. This 13th-century house is believed to have been the home of the Capulets, the family to which Juliet belonged, and is said to be the inspiration for Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet tragedy. It was perhaps the most touristy and crowded of all the places we visited, given the small space in the courtyard, but this simply underlines the continued impact Shakespeare has across the world.

Juliet’s House

Among the many other places we saw were the Castelvecchio, a medieval castle and museum, which offers a fascinating glimpse into Verona’s history; and the elegant Piazza die Signori.

The Castelvecchio

The Piazza die Signori

In the evenings, the city centre is buzzing, with the many busy restaurants serving pasta, pizza, risotto and a range of local dishes which even included horse meat. Being vegetarian, we were ate a lot of pizza and pasta, but good as these meals were, we did find it a little repetitive and longed for something more spicy. Another popular activity in Verona is drinking Aperol Spritz. I know it is available in Scotland but somehow it seemed more natural to be drinking it in Verona.

Fortunately, like in Spain, the bars and restaurants stay open late in Verona, and so even at midnight, there are still people eating and others taking in the atmosphere in front of the Arena.

It was easy to get to the sites in Verona as everything was in walking distance. Also, because of the city centre’s narrow streets, people prefer using scooters and bicycles instead of cars. However, outside of the centre, driving in Verona can be intimidating because of the heavy and noisy traffic!

More images of Verona

We had a fantastic seven nights in Verona and would recommend a visit to anyone who would like to blend Italian history, culture and cuisine.

Lake Constance

Tags

Bregenz, Horbranz, Lindau

Lake Constance

The second leg of our European tour took us to Hörbranz in Austria, next to the German border and just a few kilometres from Lake Constance. Unfortunately, our sat-nav hadn’t noticed that where we were heading was the other side of a footbridge, so we had a lengthy detour to actually approach our apartment correctly from the Austrian rather than the German end of the same street.

Hörbranz itself was quite a small village with just a couple of shops, a bar and a restaurant. But from our spacious apartment we were able to visit Lindau (Germany) and Bregenz (Austria) and take in some fabulous views across Europe’s third largest freshwater lake (by surface area).

The lion and the lighthouse guarding the entrance to Lindau harbour

The popular tourist destination of Lindau sits on a small island on the northern side of the Lake, connected to the mainland by a short road bridge in one corner and a railway line in the other. The centre is a charming warren of cobbled streets and colourful buildings unspoilt by traffic.

The harbour, on the southern side of the island, is a particular hub of activity, filled with boats and yachts of all sizes. The famous lion and lighthouse at the harbour entrance, together with the crystal-clear waters of Lake Constance, create a picturesque setting. From here, you can catch a ferry to explore other towns around the lake or take a boat tour to enjoy the stunning scenery.

The town has many cafes and restaurants, offering a variety of local and international cuisines, including two Indian restaurants (although by the time we fancied something to eat both had closed for the afternoon).

Whether you are looking to relax or explore the lake and its surroundings, Lindau is well worth a visit. We spent some four or five hours taking it all in before heading back to our apartment in Hörbranz.

Above: images of Lindau, Germany

Bregenz, by contrast, is much less of a tourist destination, but was still busy when we visited. Indeed, it too has many bars and restaurants and these were were filling quickly be early evening. The architecture of the town, while not as colourful as Lindau, was still attractive, especially as you moved further uphill and away from the lake.

As the sun began to set over Lake Constance, the shore at Bregenz filled with people all wanting to soak up the atmosphere on what was a warm summer’s evening.

Images of Bregenz, Austria

The Marina at Bregenz

Sunset over Lake Constance, viewed from Bregenz

The Moselle Region, Germany

Tags

Moselle, Saarburg, wine

Saarburg at Night

The first stop on our 2023 European tour was the Moselle region of Germany. We stayed in the small town of Nittel, not far from Luxembourg. As you might expect for a wine region, there were grapevines everywhere and many small and not so small vineyards.

The Moselle river

Nittel itself was mostly residential, and so we took a short drive away from the river to explore the area further. Our first stop was Saarburg, a small but very quaint town that attracts tourists and many locals from the surrounding area. It has a particularly attractive pedestrian area through which runs the canal. There is also a castle and two old churches, and an unusual waterfall in the centre of the town.

The waterfall in the centre of Saarburg

After Saarburg we went past fields of grapevines to Konz, but this was much more modern and lacked the character of Saarburg. Its best feature was the large central square and fountain (see below).

Konz

We only stayed the two nights in Germany, going back to Saarburg on the last night for an excellent pizza in a dog friendly restaurant. Our accommodation in Nittel was a comfortable apartment run by a friendly private host who spoke a little more English than we did German. We certainly slept well on both nights.

On our third morning in Europe we set off from Nittel towards Austria.

Our Summer Road Trip to Europe

Tags

Europe, road trip

At the end of August we packed up the car and took the ferry, with our two dogs, from Newcastle to IJmuiden (near Amsterdam). We stayed in six different countries, drove through another two, took two car trains, and covered over 2,800 kilometres (1740 miles). We returned home on 18 September.

Like last year, instead of EU pet passports we had to obtain health certificates for each of our dogs. This process is very pricey. Each certificate is pages long, is valid only for a single use within limited time and is a direct result of Brexit, something that neither we or our fellow Scots wanted.

Check-in at the ferry port was straightforward. There was no queue and we were soon onboard. In our cabin, the dogs settled quickly and slept remarkably well, despite the usual background engine noise that reverberates around any ferry of this size. As for us, it wasn’t the greatest night’s sleep but we enjoyed a very good choice of vegetarian food for our dinner thanks to the excellent service that DFDS provided. They are certainly much better than Brittany Ferries.

Once in Europe travelling was easy, with no further passport checks or other bureaucracy thanks to the Schengen Agreement.

We had a fantastic three weeks and it will take a number of new posts following this one, to cover the places we visited on our road trip.

Eilean Donan Castle

Tags

castles, highlands

(Photo from Pixabay)

Situated near the village of Dornie, Eilean Donan castle sits on a small tidal island where the lochs Duich, Long and Alsh all meet.

It is probably Scotland’s most photographed castle outside of Edinburgh, and rightly so. It really is stunning, set as it is in the beautiful western Highlands.

We called in on our way back from Skye and had a good look around the outside (sadly we couldn’t take the dogs inside).

The castle itself began life in the 13th century; and in 1306, Robert the Bruce was said to have stayed there in the year he became king of Scotland. Many years later it became a gathering place for Jacobites, and because of this, in 1719 it was subsequently destroyed by gunfire from government frigates.

In 1912 reconstruction began and was finally completed some 20 years later.

The stunning scenery of the western Highlands

The Stunning Scenery of Skye

Tags

castle, highlands, loch, Portree

The Cuillins, viewed before the rain arrived

We spent three nights on the Isle of Skye, staying in a dog-friendly cabin at Broadford. And while we didn’t see everything we had planned, we did experience Skye in all it’s beautiful glory.

We started our first day in Portree, the island’s largest town. It was a warm Saturday, and the town was bustling with tourists and locals. Narrowish streets and an absence of big stores added to the relaxed atmosphere. But I guess you’d call it a flying visit, because after a good walk around, we headed off to the Old Man of Storr.

The harbour at Portree

This rock feature was formed by volcanic activity is some six miles (9.5 km) north of Portree. It is an outcrop of rock overlooking the Raasay Sound with stunning views all around. With an elevation of 719 metres it is a steep climb up a well trodden path, so good footwear is needed.

When we visited it was quite busy. It was also very windy, and with our old Collie dog finding it hard going we called it a day halfway up. Even so, the scenery was spectacular.

A view from the Old Man of Storr

Looking back at the Old Man of Storr from the road

Our next stop was to be the Fairy Glen. Another geological feature, it is made up of a number of conical hills that look man made but are in fact the result of ancient land slips.

We found the place quite captivating, and were reminded of the children’s TV programme, the Teletubbies. Anyway, we had an enjoyable time exploring. It wasn’t too crowded and the sun shone throughout our visit.

The Fairy Glen

The following day we drove up to Dunvegan Castle. Although not the most attractive Castle when seen from close up, it is set in some beautiful gardens and located on the picturesque coastline in the north west of the island.

Dunvegan Castle

The scenery around the castle

From Dunvegan it was a drive southwards on narrow roads and over steep hills to our next stop, the Talisker distillery. We wanted to visit the shop and buy ourselves a bottle of the famous malt whisky. It wasn’t very busy so we had ample time to take in the views over Loch Harport before heading off again to Talisker beach.

Loch Harport

Talisker beach is a good drive from the distillery, and once you have negotiated the narrow roads and hairpin bends, you descend steeply until the road runs out. It is then a 15 minute walk to the beach itself.

Our dogs were quite happy with this, but I was thinking we have to walk back as well, so it better be good. It was, and despite the strong breeze, it was quiet, relaxing and scenic.

Talisker beach

We headed back to Broadford after spending time at the beach in readiness for a drive to the west coast later in the evening.

The road to Elgol was not only narrow, but heavily pot-holed. In places it looked subject to flooding and there were sheep everywhere. So it required careful driving.

Our aim was to see the sun setting from the beach. But as we arrived at our destination, the storm clouds were brewing. We parked up and managed about 5 minutes on the beach before the rain hit us. It became heavy and persistent, so we headed home navigating along a now dark and wet road.

However, on the outward journey we did see more stunning scenery, with the Cuillin mountains in the distance and views of Loch Slapin forming a backdrop to our journey.

Loch Slapin

The setting sun seen from Elgol beach

You need several days on Skye to see all if can offer. But what we did see was stunning. We’d certainly visit again.

So after three nights we headed back over the Skye bridge for our 178 mile (286 km) journey home.

Springtime in New York

Tags

city, skyscraper, USA

In the second week of April we flew to New York with our grandson for a long-promised experience. At age 16 we were a little worried he might be bored, but his enthusiasm for the sights was infectious.

We landed at Newark Liberty airport shortly after 9:30pm local time, but it took a good hour and a half to get through US border control. So we settled for a taxi to our hotel near Battery Park, arriving in time for a drink before going to bed (by now, our body clocks thought it was 5am!).

Day one was like a winter’s day at home (Scotland), but we’re hardy folk. We took the first of many subway rides to Times Square and then visited the Madam Tussaud’s wax museum. Luckily, we had a three-day pass for entry into the attractions which in total, gave us a saving of over $300 by the time it expired. Otherwise, we’d have soon been out of pocket, the cheapest attraction being about $40 per person.

Yes, we soon learnt that New York is very expensive.

Times Square

Afternoon on the first day started with a long walk towards Central Park for our destination at the National History Museum. We joined a lengthy queue so lost 45 minutes before we even gained entry. But William was very happy seeing the exhibits, which included a show in the planetarium.

The Museum of Natural History

The cold weather was accompanied by a lot of low cloud that in the evening took on an eerie appearance.

A misty Manhattan

In contrast, our second day in the city was hot and sunny. The mist was replaced by a haze that could have been caused by pollution. Anyway, our first stop was the 9/11 Memorial, a place we had visited once before on our last visit to New York.

It is two large infinity pools set into the ground where the twin towers stood. Next to them is the brand new One Word Trade Centre, a building we would be visiting later in our stay. The memorial museum is adjacent to the pools, and we joined many other visitors to learn more of this sombre story. Unlike the temporary museum we saw on our previous visit, this one is huge (and underground), taking in much of the area that would have been the footings for the twin towers themselves.

The One World Trade Centre

Later we joined the crowd of tourists heading to see Liberty Island and Ellis Island. Seeing the famous statue up close was impressive, but of more interest was Ellis Island.

It’s museum provided an interesting reminder of how current day America was created by immigrants arriving from all over the world. We learned about the many problems they faced, including prejudice from some of the earlier settlers. What I found a little lacking though was the impact on Native Americans and their culture. That said, it was definitely worth the visit.

The Manhattan skyline

The following day we were back at the One World Trade Centre to take a very fast lift to the top. You get a stunning 360 degree view of the city, including neighbouring New Jersey (photo below)

Staying with tall buildings,we also went up the Empire State Building after dark for a stunning night vista of New York.

The final attraction we visited was the Guggenheim Museum. The art on display wasn’t really to my taste, but it was a fascinating building.

Night view from the Empire State Building

Inside the Guggenheim

On our final day we headed up town for the Easter parade, which was more of a crowded gathering really; and ended our stay at a great little Italian restaurant. Then it was 3 trains and the monorail back to Newark Liberty International for the flight back across the Atlantic.

A view from Battery Park

Benalmádena, Málaga and Beyond

Tags

Alcazaba, Andalusia, Costa del Sol, Málaga, Setenil

At the very end of January we went to visit our friend Maria in the costal town of Benalmádena, Southern Spain. Although our stay was only for four nights, we managed to see a great deal and experience some excellent food and wine. A popular tourist destination, Benalmádena is about 12km west of Málaga and has three relatively distinct urban areas.

The coastal area is a mixture of bars, restaurants, hotels and apartments, overlooking a long sandy beach. A major place of interest is the award winning marina. With some expensive looking apartments set on their own islands, designer shops and luxury yachts, it is home to the wealthy. We took a slow walk around it before stopping for coffee and some delicious Pitufo con aceite y tomate at a nearby café.

Above and below: The marina in Benalmádena

Away from the marina, and up in the hills is the original village area of Benalmádena Pueblo. It is characterised by white Andalusian houses and narrow streets; and while it will be quite busy with tourists in the summer, it was quiet and peaceful when we visited.

After an enjoyable breakfast at El Muro, a restaurant near the old church with views down the hill towards the sea, we took a slow stroll around the almost empty streets. It was a beautiful day and the un-rushed ambience of the village was very infectious. It was definitely one of the highlights of our visit.

The church in Benalmádena Pueblo

It was relatively quiet when we visited Benalmádena Pueblo

Just below the white houses sits a strange new attraction, the purpose of which we didn’t fully understand. It tells the story (although we didn’t really see how) of Christopher Columbus and his discovery of the new world. Known as Castle Colomares, it was built at the end of the 1980s in a mixture of styles (see photo below).

Castle Colomares, a mix of Byzantine, Romanesque, Gothic and Mudejar styles united in one monument.

The third urban area in Benalmádena is the Arroyo de la Miel. This is a more commercial area, home to many shops and the local railway station.

When visiting this part of Spain, a trip into Málaga is definitely recommended. The old city centre is overlooked by the Alcazaba de Málaga, which sits atop a steep hill. Below it are the remains of the Roman amphitheatre, making this area a very historic place of interest. The Alcazaba itself is one of Spain’s best preserved Moorish fortress palaces.

It was built in the 11th century during the period of Muslim-ruled Al-Andalus and then modified over the next few hundred years. We bought tickets to see this and also the nearby (but even further up the hill) Castillo de Gibralfaro. The Alcazaba is a series of different enclosures, many only accessible by narrow steps. At the north east end is the Nasrid Palace, which has been restored to its former glory.

The Nasrid Palace in the Alcazaba

After taking in the history, we ventured into the centre where we spent a pleasant couple of hours at a bar before moving next door to a vegetarian restaurant for dinner (one of at least two such restaurants in Málaga). What with the tapas bar Maria took us to earlier in the day, I can honestly say that this Spanish city was a great place in which to eat.

Travelling further afield and inland, we were able to appreciate the relatively unspoilt Andalusian countryside. Our first stop was at the three large reservoirs north west of Malaga. Set between large hills and with swathes of woodland, these lakes took on a distinct blue-green colour in the sunlight. Unfortunately, a lack of rainfall meant that they were all low on water.

Embalse del Conde de Guadalhorce

The hills in the area around los embalses (the reservoirs)

After taking in the peaceful surroundings by the water, we then headed east to the interesting village of Setenil de Las Bodegas. Even out of season this place is popular with visitors who come to see the village’s buildings built into and under the rocks above. By the time we had found somewhere to park and then walked downhill through the narrow streets, we were in need of something to eat. Sadly, this resulted in the only bad food experience we had on our whole trip to Spain but maybe choosing the only place with empty tables was probably our mistake (all the other bars were busy).

But despite the food, it was a fascinating experience; and even with the very steep climb back up the hill to the car, it was definitely worth the visit.

These bars in Setenil de Las Bodegas were literally burrowed underneath the rocks.

Although only a short visit, we had a great time in southern Spain. Maria really looked after us, researching the best places for vegetarian food and driving us around on what we described as very busy roads. The weather was great too, and although it wasn’t hot, it was still much sunnier and warmer than back home in Scotland.

The beach at Benalmádena

Located on the seafront, Castillo Bil-Bil, is used for cultural events, concerts and exhibitions